Protective Style Lookbook || Classic Summer Updo

By popular demand, this is a series showcasing various protective hair styles.  Protective styling does not have to be boring. :o)

Model: Nyla K

Difficulty level: 2/5

Description: Elegant updo on a twist-out, braid-out, or other textured hair.

Healthy Recipes || Coconut Milk Popsicles

{Image from "This Rawsome Vegan Life"}

All you need are coconut milk, a natural sweetener (e.g., cane sugar, agave, date paste, or bananas), frozen fruit of your choice, and an herb (optional).  

For the full recipe, visit This Rawsome Vegan Life.

Hair Diary || Updated Washing Frequency with New Exercise Routine

So for the past few months I have been working out more regularly than I usually do - at least 3x a week.  (Check out this previous post for details.)  That being said, I have come to terms with the reality that I have to up my washing frequency.  Previously I could go as much as two to four weeks between washes, but now?  Now, I'm going weekly at the maximum.  I just cannot deal with the idea of having a sweaty, bacteria-laden scalp for much longer than that.  I'm also not a fan of the witch hazel routine (though I kind of used to be) to keep washing at bay.

Anyway, with this new washing frequency, I cannot keep my twists in for longer than three weeks (or they'll lock up on me), but that's honestly okay and has worked out fine thus far.  (I wore twists for about two to four weeks -- usually four -- with my previous regimen.)

And now for more hair pics:

After washing twists. (8 days later.) Edges re-done after wash. 

Wrapping up week #2. (13 days later.)

Wrapping up week #2. (13 days later.)

Twist-out after about 3 weeks in twists.  (Worn for a few days.)

Finger detangled, washed, conditioned, sealed, and stretched (via rollers).  
Worn like this for a day or so, then re-twisted.

Re-twisting. Bigger sections.

My Top 4 Favorite Hair and Body Oils!

Coconut oil.
I use it to pre-poo and in my shea butter mix.  It helps to protect my hair against damage and dryness from washing.  It also helps to minimize breakage (during manipulation).

Safflower oil.
Very inexpensive yet effective.  I use it in my shea butter mix and on my elbows and knees.  I also use it to moisturize my face at night before bed.  It helps to keep my skin and hair smooth.

Olive oil.
I use this in my shea butter mix and have used it mixed with conditioners.  It enhances the moisturizing/sealing properties of the mixture.  I also love this oil for cooking since it is a healthier option than many other oils.

Grapeseed oil.
I use this in my shea butter mix and on my face (at night) during the winter.  It protects against moisture loss.

Healthy Hair on Youtube: Traycee

This is for my relaxed/texlaxed ladies!  In the following video, Traycee (who is approaching hip-length) talks about texlaxing to maintain thickness, products with protein, and more ...

Mixology || Simple Detangler Recipe Using Shea Butter and Oils

This recipe is ideal for undoing an old set of twists or braids.

Ingredients: 
4 tbsp coconut oil
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp melted shea butter (optional, but makes the process much easier)

Directions:
All you need for this detangler are coconut oil, olive oil, and melted shea butter. Apply this mixture to dry or damp hair, allow it to set, and then proceed to finger detangle. (Leaving coconut oil on dry hair overnight has been demonstrated to reduce combing damage.)

Protective Style Lookbook || Elegant Updo on Curly Mini Twists

By popular demand, this is a series showcasing various protective hair styles.  Protective styling does not have to be boring. :o)

Model: MsTanish

Difficulty level: 3/5

Description: Twists are curled and pinned to the side.  Marley braid hair is added for fullness.

Study || Food-Packaging Chemical (DEHP) + Diabetes Risk in Children

Check out the following excerpts from recent research on DEHP (a food-packaging chemical) and diabetes precursors in adolescents:

MOTIVATION

"Mono-(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (MEHP), a DEHP metabolite, activates peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor(PPAR) g transcription more selectively than rosglitazone,[12] a drug used to treat type 2 diabetes by increasing insulin sensitivity.[13] This selective upregulation appears to explain the differential effects of rosglitazone and MEHP, in which MEHP produces a phenotype of insulin resistance in cellular models,[14,15] and in vivo.[16] Given that PPAR plays key roles in lipid and carbohydrate metabolism,[17] these ?ndings provide biological plausibility for DEHP metabolites in insulin resistance. ..."

BACKGROUND
"Di-2-ethylhexylphthalate (DEHP) is an environmental chemical commonly found in processed foods [and food packaging]. Phthalate exposures, in particular to DEHP, have been associated with insulin resistance in adults, but have not been studied in adolescents."

CONCLUSION
"Urinary DEHP concentrations were associated with increased insulin resistance in this cross-sectional study of adolescents. This study cannot rule out the possibility that insulin-resistant children ingest food with higher phthalate content, or that insulin-resistant children excrete more DEHP."

SOURCE AND FOR FURTHER READING
PEDIATRICS - OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN ACADEMY OF PEDIATRICS

Hair Diary || Incorporating a Protein Conditioner Into My Regimen

Time for a wash!

So a few "Hair Diary" entries ago, I talked about adjusting my regimen so that I can reach hip-length by late 2014.  In this same entry, I also discussed an experiment with a new detangling method.  (Here is that entry for those who missed it.)  So what is the update on that?  So far, so good.

Other than tweaking my detangling method, I also need to incorporate protein deep conditioning to help with length retention.  Why?  The ends of my hair are the oldest and thus most worn and susceptible to breakage.  During my first five years as a natural, I rarely (probably less than a handful of times) used protein conditioners, but that might have to change if I want to reach hip-length.  So that being said, I have been using ORS Replenishing Conditioner after the past few washes.  (This is separate from my detangling conditioner - Suave/Tresemme.)  I will report back with an update on that in the near future.

And now for some more hair pics:

Pre-shampoo treatment on the go.  Coconut-oil drenched hair in jumbo flat twists.

Mandatory shrinkage comparison.  (LEFT) Mostly shrunken wet hair.  My hair shrinks more than this once dry. (RIGHT) Stretching that same section of hair.

All done twisting.  I do not usually twist on wet hair, but I was on the go.
Planning to keep this in for 3-4 weeks.

Attempted back shot of the twist bun.

A new staple in my regimen.

My Exercise Routine for When I am Super Busy

When it comes to exercising, the biggest obstacle I face (and many others might face) is finding the TIME.  Yes, the time.  My motivation exists ...

I want to be the healthiest that I can be.  I want to keep my heart healthy.

I want to boost my mood (my happiness).

"When we exert ourselves the brain releases endorphins -- the same neurotransmitters that give us a natural high when we fall in love." ~ Dr. Timothy J. Sharp, 100 Ways to Happiness

I want to stay youthful.

I want optimize my hair growth.  (You can read more about the "theory" in this earlier post.)

I want to tone up a little (not too much ... been there and done that).

So, yes, the motivation is there, but finding the time is difficult given a busy schedule.  However, truth be told -- and I have always believed this -- we make the time for things to which we want to give time. That being said, with the time that I am able to carve out in my day, sometimes I can fit in a 30-45-minute workout and other times, all I can really devote is 10 minutes.

Hence, my interest in the "high intensity workout" craze that has been sweeping the exercise world lately.

I've tried a few here and there, but it is this one that I LOVE, have been using for a while, and recommend (after you first consult with your doctor to get the o.k.).  The video is free (available on youtube); the instructor is very clear, motivational and easy to understand; and the pace really gets your heart rate up and your muscles working.  I highly recommend stretching before and after the routine to get those muscles loose.

Protective Style Lookbook || Two Chic Up-do Styles (Natural OR Relaxed)

By popular demand, this is a series showcasing various protective hair styles.  Protective styling does not have to be boring. :o)

Model: Jsong

Difficulty level: 3/5

Description: Two up-dos on stretched medium-length hair.

Mixology || Natural Blackhead-Busting Blackout Mask

This recipe is from bodyunburden.com blog.  For more details and more DIY recipes, check out the blog.

Ingredients:
2 capsule of activated charcoal
1/2 tsp of bentonite clay
2 tsp of water

Instructions:
Mix (using a plastic or wooden spoon only) all the ingredients together into a smooth paste, and spot test the mask on your cheek or underside of your wrist.  Wash face with a mild cleanser and pat partially dry.  Apply the mask evenly avoiding the delicate skin around the eyes and lips, and let sit until dry (~7-10 minutes).  As the mask dries, it feels tight on the skin, which can sometimes feel a little itchy.  (If you start to feel uncomfortable, wash the mask off.)  After the mask dries, wash it off, pat face gently with a clean towel, and let the skin breath or apply a mild all-natural moisturizer.

Re-post || 4 Lesser-Known Practices of Naturals with Long Hair

Originally posted on BGLH.

What do Cipriana, Francheska, Geniece and most other long-haired naturals have in common when it comes to regimens?  Well, it is no secret that protective styling, low manipulation, minimum heat usage, and washing in sections are generally a must.  But what other components of our regimens have helped us to achieve long, healthy hair?  Here are four that are generally overlooked:

1. Washing: Conditioner washes or pre-shampoo treatments

When it comes to washing our hair, we either do an oil/conditioner treatment prior to shampooing (i.e., pre-poo) or we use conditioner as a shampoo substitute (i.e., co-wash).  Why?  Because pre-pooing and co-washing help us to avoid the drying effects of shampoo, which can lead to brittle, breaking hair.  Additionally, certain pre-poo treatments, like coconut oil, can strengthen the hair and minimize hygral fatigue (i.e., stress on the hair due to water uptake and eventual evaporation). Those of us who do use shampoos generally go for sulfate-free ones, which can further decrease any drying effects.   However, even with sulfate-free shampoos, many of us still pre-poo for added protection.

2. Trimming rarely or dusting instead

Many long-haired naturals go a year (yes, a year) between trims while a few go six months at the minimum.  Some long-haired naturals do not trim at all and just �dust� or do a �search and destroy�. A �dust� involves trimming � inch or less off the ends.  Doing a �search and destroy� involves only trimming those strands that have visible split ends.  What is the bottom line?  Generally, we only trim when our hair absolutely needs it AND we keep our hair fairly healthy so that it does not need one often.

3. Staple Products: Oils and inexpensive conditioners

When it comes to staple products, we generally love oils and conditioners, and they do not have to be fancy, expensive brands either!  Conditioners help to reduce dryness and breakage. Oils either replenish or seal in moisture, depending on the type.  Additionally, oils help to minimize knots and tangles, which can be death to our length retention.  Some of us long-haired naturals also love to add oils to our conditioners to provide extra slip for detangling.

4. Detangling: Wide-tooth, seamless comb or fingers

When it comes to detangling, we generally use our fingers and/or a wide-tooth, seamless comb.  Those of us who use combs usually do so on conditioner-soaked hair and with the K-cutter or a bone (or resin) comb to avoid snagging and ripping.  Those of us who finger detangle do so on wet or dry, lubricated hair depending on what works for us.  Whether we detangle with our fingers or a wide-tooth, seamless comb depends heavily on our hair texture, density, type, and styling process.  What about the brush and thin-tooth comb?  Many of us steer clear of them.

Though these are the more common techniques of healthy, long-haired naturals, you will find that a few of us stray from these basics.  Ultimately, what works for one individual may not work for another, so learn what works for YOU!  Hopefully this can be a guide, but most importantly, keep in mind these three concepts:

Less is more!  Keep it simple!  And leave your hair alone!

Skin Care || Clearing Up Eczema

Ambrosia discusses how she clears up her eczema:

Healthy Hair on Youtube: AfricanExport

I've been following this type 4 lady from the start, and let me tell you, her hair has flourished recently!  It has grown tremendously and looks healthy from root to tip.

In this video, she talks about her protective styling regimen (via cornrows under wigs) and shows her hair in rare form:

And in this video, she discusses her long-lasting moisture routine:

Healthy Recipes || Sweet Potato Smoothie

As some of you probably already know, I am a big smoothie drinker.  Well, in a recent effort to be more creative with sweet potatoes, I created a super simple smoothie recipe:

Ingredients:
1 cup banana
1 cup sweet potato (cooked)
2 cups almond milk (or more for desired consistency)
4 ice cubes
1 scoop protein powder (optional)

Just blend the ingredients together and you're done!

Hair Diary || From Loose Twists to My Usual Twists + New Detangling Method

Doing a new set of twists.

I wore the loose twists for almost two weeks then undid them, washed, conditioned, and detangled.  After that, I air dried in rollers again and put in another set of loose twists.  I wasn't quite feeling them this go around, so after a couple days, I transitioned to my usual twists.  I'm in week #2 and plan to keep them in for a total of three weeks.

Now for my new detangling method.  As an effort to get to hip-length (HL) sometime late next year, I knew that something(s) in my regimen had to improve ... one being that I be more patient in my detangling method.  As my hair got longer, detangling sessions obviously became more tedious and opened the door to a bit of impatience on my part.  I did not notice the effects until I started monitoring my front hair over a couple of years.  (Check this earlier post for more details.)  Once I became more patient with that section (and gave myself a fresh trim), it flourished!  And here I thought my bangs had reached their terminal length.

For the remainder of this year, I want to try that theory on the rest of my hair.  I'm not going to lie ... for a while, I thought WSL was it ... was my terminal length, but I want to exhaust this option before making that conclusion.  So what is my new detangling method?  Well, I'm currently experimenting with a few different ones before I finalize on one.  Here is option #1 at the moment:

Finger separate on dry, lubricated hair + Finger detangle on damp, conditioner-soaked hair.
In all honesty, doing a full finger detangling on dry hair prior to washing just doesn't work for me and does my hair more harm than good.  However, finger detangling on damp, conditioner-soaked hair has been working really well so far.  The catch?  My hair cannot be too tangled beforehand.  That being said, I've haven't tried this on hair that has been twisted for the long-term, so the story could be different in that case.  Right now, my experiment is to thoroughly finger separate each twist after pre-pooing overnight with coconut oil, put my hair into 8 big braids, wash, then whip out the conditioner and do the full finger detangle.

I will keep you all posted and should have a final updated regimen before the end of the year.  Now for more hair pics:

From loose twists to my usual "traditional" twists.

Twisting.

Done.  Will wear for three weeks.

Study || Grapeseed Oil and Removal of Sun-Induced Hyperpigmentation?

When the summer hits, my face begins to tan more quickly than the rest of my body (because it is more exposed).  I usually do not have a problem with this tanning variation except when it comes to matching foundation or wearing low-cut tops that reveal a less tanned complexion from the neck down.   I've learned to deal with it since it is only temporary, and during some summers, the tan does balance out over time.

Nevertheless, I stumbled upon this interesting study (while researching grapeseed oil) that demonstrated lightening effects on UV-induced hyperpigmentation (i.e., a tan) after topical application of linoleic acid.  Since grapeseed oil contains a large amount of linoleic acid, it makes you wonder if it would have that effect?  Maybe you can do your own personal experiment or research.

SOURCE:
ABSTRACT ON LINOLEIC ACID LIGHTENS UV-INDUCE HYPERPIGMENTATION (1998)

How to Keep Your Hair Moisturized in Dry Heat

Unlike moist heat, dry heat can leave our hair super parched.  In the following video, Ambrosia discusses how she keeps her moisturized in dry Arizona:

Protective Style Lookbook || Elegant Formal Twisted Updo

By popular demand, this is a series showcasing various protective hair styles.  Protective styling does not have to be boring. :o)

Model: Nik

Difficulty level: 2/5

Description: Flat-twisted bang into three bunned twists.

Mixology || Lola Zabeth's Mud Wash Recipe

Are you interested in making your own mud wash?

Ingredients:
3 tbs bentonite clay powder
1 tbs organic powdered honey
1 tbs organic slippery elm powder
3 ozs aloe vera juice

Instructions:
1. Mix the bentonite clay, powdered honey and slippery elm powder in a bowl.
2. Funnel the mixture into a bottle. Pour the aloe vera juice into the bottle. Shake well. The consistency is perfect�loose enough the spread easily without being drippy and messy.

For the full tutorial and/or more details, check out Lola's blog.

Hair Diary || Back to Protective Styling and A New Way of Air-drying

Bun on stretched wash-n-go or reverted twist-out. (I can't remember).

So after a few months of wash-n-gos, braid-outs, and twist-outs, I miss protective styling.  While those few months were enjoyable for the most part, the constant manipulation was 1) a daily high maintenance task for a low maintenance gal like me and 2) did not allow for me to retain growth ... which is no surprise.  As I mentioned in an earlier post, my focus was to play more with my hair at its current length even if it met not retaining length.

Well now that phase is over and I am back to my trusty length retention regimen - twists.  However, there will be a few adjustments since getting to waistlength is one thing but getting to hip-length is a whole other hurdle.  I will talk more about those adjustments in a future post.

As for my new way of air-drying?  Well, it is roller sets.  I like them because they are quick and easy to do, dry fully overnight, require less manipulation, and get my hair more stretched than twists or braids.  So that is one of the changes I am making to my regimen -- air-drying my hair via rollers instead of twists/braids.

And now for more hair photos:

Dried wash-n-go into a puff.

Stretched wash-n-go (via braids that I did not allow to dry all the way).

First blow out in years.  Wasn't impressed with the result (especially the shrunken ends and the minimal overall stretch).  Hence, I will stick to other options for stretching my hair.

Jumbo twists on semi-flat ironed hair (300 deg F).   I was attempting to try a modified version of the Mahoganycurls' twist out tutorial but the weather (i.e., humidity and rain) wouldn't allow for it.

Air drying in rollers to stretch my hair.

The result.

Close-up of the result.  I like.

Experimenting with loose twists for the first time (on a failed flat iron job).  Though a few youtubers have done this style before, I was inspired by MsTanish because her hair characteristics are closest to mine.

Loose twists in a bun.

Natural Remedy for Menstrual Cramps - Blackstrap Molasses

Do you get really bad menstrual cramps?  Are you tired of relying on medication for the pain?  In the following video, Fran shares a natural remedy for menstrual cramps using blackstrap molasses:

Healthy Hair on Youtube (Encore): MsTanish

So I've featured MsTanish's Youtube channel before and couldn't resist doing it again after seeing her recent videos.  Below she discusses her length retention regimen using loose twists.  I love this explanation because it is very detailed:

Then in this video, she demonstrates her moisturizing routine while in the loose twists AND the various (and beautiful, I might add) styles she wears with the loose twists:

Healthy Eating || Ways to Add Protein to Your Smoothie

Protein powder.  I recommend going for a flavorless one or vanilla.  Either of these go pretty well in most smoothies.  Chocolate, strawberry, or other highly distinct flavors will limit the amount of tasty smoothies you can make.

Natural peanut butter.  This is probably my most favorite way to add protein to a smoothie because it is natural and adds a nice (but not overwhelming) flavor.  Go for the natural peanut butter because processed ones tend to have added sugar and hydrogenated fats.

Soy milk.  Soy milk used to be a pretty popular replacement for cow milk but has gotten a slightly bad reputation over the years largely because of its association with genetically modified soy beans (GMO).  However, if you can find non-GMO soy milk, you should be fine.

MORE READS
SOY: THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE BEST
THE TRUTH ABOUT SOY

Jess' Twist Out on Blown Out Hair

I love Jess' simple hair care routine and moreover this recent tutorial of a twist out on blown out hair.  Hmm ... I'm thinking I might try this style next weekend. :o)