Showing posts with label Breakage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Breakage. Show all posts

Monday, April 1, 2013

Case Study || "Tangle-Teezer-Like" Tool and Breakage?

I was on one of my favorite forums when I came across the following case study that was performed in India.  The report involves a tool that resembles the "Tangle Teezer" in terms of bristle arrangement and sizing.  (There are, of course, some differences between the tool in the report and the "Tangle Teezer", but the similarities cannot be neglected, in my honest opinion.)

So what is so interesting about this case study?  Well, to me, it does more than demonstrate how the use of certain hair tools may ultimately translate to breakage.  It does two more things:

1) It gives possible confirmation to those who jumped on the "Tangle Teezer" bandwagon and noticed an increase in breakage and split ends thereafter.

2) And, for my own hair care practices, it makes me think twice about using the "Tangle Teezer" on my flat-ironed hair.  (You see, I figured the problem with the tool that most people were experiencing was due to using it on textured hair.  I thought it okay to use the tool on straight hair ... until now.)  Contrary to what I initially guessed, the study was performed on patients who were not afro-textured but who had naturally straight/wavy hair.  Even on straight hair, this tool may present a problem!?!

Ultimately, patients were asked to: 
  • avoid the tool (and instead use a straight comb with elongated bristles) AND 
  • to change their combing habits (which involved using the tool on hair that had not been lubricated with conditioner or oil).
For the full study: TRICHORRHEXIS NODOSA INDUCED BY TOOL AND COMBING HABIT (2011)

About trichorrhexis nodosa -  "The essential abnormality of trichorrhexis nodosa is the formation of nodes along the hair shaft through which breakage readily occurs (Source)."

Thursday, March 22, 2012

"Hidden" Sources of Breakage

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Breakage, breakage, breakage.  When we experience breakage, our first inclination is to presume dryness, over manipulation, or heat usage as the source.  However, sometimes the actual culprit may run a little deeper.  Here are some "hidden" sources of hair breakage:

1) Overstretching the hair: Do you stretch your hair prior to styling? If so, be sure you are using one of these least harmful methods: twists or loose braids. Banding is another option as well, depending on the tension.  On the other hand, tight banding or tight braiding can overstretch the hair and lead to weakened strands. Also, be sure you are stretching on damp hair instead of wet hair.  Wet hair will be more susceptible to breakage under tension. Lastly, refrain from using rubber bands or any other harmful hair tie (e.g., cotton) during the drying process.

2) Styling on wet or drenched hair: Hair is most fragile when wet or drenched with water.  Styling the hair in this state may lead to mechanical breakage.  Depending on the manipulation required for the desired style, it may be better to wait until the hair is damp or damp-dry.

3) Diet low in protein: Hair largely consists of protein (i.e., keratin) which is built from amino acids extracted from foods we put into our body.  A diet low in protein can translate into weaker, thinner hair strands (and thus breakage) or even hair loss.  Mitigate this issue by incorporating more nuts, chicken, fish, and beans into your diet.

4) Diet low in zinc, iron, and/or Vitamin B-12: A deficiency in any of these nutrients can result in weaker strands (and thus breakage) or even hair loss.  Taking a good multivitamin on a daily basis can ensure that you are receiving a sufficient amount of these nutrients. If you are severely deficient in zinc or iron (e.g., anemia), I highly recommend that you see a doctor.

5) Use of sulfate shampoos: Certain sulfate shampoos (e.g., shampoos containing SLS and ALS) can be harsh on the hair thus weakening the strands. Switching to a more gentle sulfate shampoo or a natural shampoo can mitigate this issue.

6) Overexposure to sun: Hair that was overexposed during the summer months can be showing signs of weakness and breakage in the fall/winter months. Depending on the extent of weakening, mitigation can range from regular deep conditioning the hair with protein to trimming for a fresh start.

7) Use of an improper comb: Thin-tooth combs or combs with seams can tug on the hair and yield mechanical breakage.  Stick to seamless, wide tooth combs.

8) Hair that used to be heat styled: Even if one has not used heat in a while, heat usage from months or even a year prior can be haunting the person now. Mid-shaft splits can be opening and yielding breakage. There is also the issue of split ends widening.  Trims are the best way to mitigate this problem.

9) Sleeping on a cotton pillowcase: Cotton can be both drying and abrasive to the hair.  Sleep on a satin/silk pillowcase or use a satin/silk bonnet to put a stop to this breakage source.

10) Hair that has been colored: Dyeing can weaken the hair shaft by lifting the cuticles. Depending on the extent of weakening, mitigation can range from regular deep conditioning with protein to trimming for a fresh start.

11) Protein-moisture imbalance: Hair can either become brittle or stretchy and thus break due to a protein-moisture imbalance.  Read this post for more information.

As always, please speak with your doctor before adjusting your diet or lifestyle.

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Saturday, April 3, 2010

Tips for a Sensitive Hairline

Like some of you, I have a sensitive hairline. Do not be fooled by the thick edges. Lol. My hairline has had a couple weak moments over the years, so I consistently monitor the area and give it extra TLC to keep it healthy. Here are some tips that have helped me and may help you:

? Minimize pulling the hair back too tight
Pulling the hair back tautly causes tension along the hairline and may result in broken hairs or hair loss over time. Styles in which the hair is pulled back should be worn minimally and/or loosely. Because of my sensitive hairline, I opt for loose, pinned updos that allow my hairline to breathe and stay away from tight buns. If the style hurts, then listen to your hairline.

? Opt for a polyester/silk pillow case or bonnet
Polyester/silk scarves worn while you sleep can damage the hairline if tied tightly. Your edges will be happier if you sleep on a polyester/silk pillow case or wrap the scarf (if it's large enough) around your pillow. Another option is to sleep in a polyester/silk bonnet, but beware of the ones that expose the elastic. Whichever method you choose, you can wrap a scarf around your edges for a few minutes in the morning to lay them down, undo the scarf, and you're good to go. It's healthier than sleeping with a scarf around your edges all night long. (NOTE: Polyester and silk come in satin, charmeuse, chiffon, and other weaves. Opt for satin or charmeuse, which are smooth weaves.)

? Refrain from sleeping in a ponytail, bun, or updo
If your hairline is sensitive, this is the worst thing you can do it. Trust me; I've been there. As you toss and turn at night, pulling can occur and your hairline can suffer. Some women can get away with this, but if you have a sensitive hairline, it is best to just sleep with your hair wrapped (in a bonnet) or in several loose and big plaits/twists.

? Apply natural butters/oils and then massage 2-5x a week
This is particularly important for a recovering hairline. Natural butters (e.g., mango, shea) and oils (e.g., coconut, olive, castor) contain substances that can soothe and nourish the scalp along the edges. For example, shea butter and mango butter contain Vitamin A, which plays an important part in the growth and maintenance of the follicles. Additionally, massaging the hairline may stimulate growth.


More tips include:

? Avoid wearing elastic headbands, bandanas, tight scarves too frequently
Once in a while is fine, but daily is probably not. Opt for loose scarves instead elastic headbands when you can.

? Redo the braids/twists along the edges weekly/biweekly
Extensions or not, this is essential for a sensitive hairline.

? Don't make the braids/twists too small and tight along the hairline

Monday, March 22, 2010

Tips for Stretching Relaxers or Transitioning

*Strengthen the demarcation line
The demarcation line is the point at which the new growth meets the chemically straigthened hair. Keep this section strong with protein-based conditioning and you will minimize breakage.

*Wear low-manipulation & protective styles
Low manipulation styles include braidouts, twistouts, rollersets, strawsets, and other styles that require minimal styling of the hair afterwards.
Protective styles include buns, braids, twists, cornrows under a wig or sew-in, and other styles that involve almost no styling of the hair afterwards.

*Moisturize regularly & thoroughly
Dry hair is much more prone to breakage and fragility than well-moisturized hair. Look for water-based moisturizers.

*Wash in sections
Especially if your hair is on the longer side. This will reduce tangling, thus reducing breakage.

*Invest in a wide tooth comb
Wide tooth combs are gentler on the demarcation line than brushes and smaller combs.

More tips coming soon ...