Twists Series: Method II

(Left) Twisting with "flat" strands vs. (Right) twisting with "coiled" strands.

How do I prolong the wear of my twists?  I use the "rope twist", or "senegalese twist" method.  This technique keeps my twists neater longer.  It also prevents the "puffy roots" look.  Check out these video tutorials ...

... by BlackOnyx77: tutorial.

... by BlackBeautyTips: tutorial.

Henna CONDITIONER Recipes

DISCLAIMER: If you are new to using henna, please do your research before trying it.  This is particularly true if your hair is color/chemically-treated OR whether you desire a color change (e.g., red henna) vs. conditioning alone (e.g., neutral henna).

4th henna treatment. Performed with henna melt from TheHairSheBang.

As some of you may know, henna may be used to strengthen and 'thicken' the hair (amongst other benefits).  Unlike most conditioners that rinse out with the next wash, henna is long lasting.  Below are some conditioner recipes you can make at home:

YOGURT HENNA CONDITIONER

- henna

- yogurt

Recipe and instructions

FIA'S HENNA GLOSS - for minimal color change and deep conditioning
- henna powder
- lemon/lime juice
- conditioner or plain, unsweetened yogurt
Recipe and instructions

MIXOLOGIST'S DREAM
- henna powder
- curd
- egg
- lemon juice
- (optional) olive oil or coconut oil
Recipe and instructions

Winterize Your Washes!

With winter weather practically around the corner, how does one minimize the dryness that can come with washing?  Here are a few tips:

1. Wash less often
Rather than washing 2x a week, try washing 1x a week.  Rather than washing weekly, try washing biweekly.  Opt for a dry shampoo in between washes.

2. Add oils to your shampoo
Some have minimized the drying effects of shampoo by adding a little oil.  Recommended oils: olive, jojoba, grapeseed, safflower, or castor oil.

3. Pre-poo with oils and/or conditioner
Before washing your hair, pre-poo (i.e., pretreat) with a concoction of oils and/or your favorite conditioner.  Allow the mix to sit on your hair for at least 20 minutes.  Then proceed to wash as usual.  Recommended oils: olive, coconut, castor, or soybean oil.

4. Focus on the roots and scalp rather than the strands
While cleansing the hair, apply shampoo to your roots only.  Massage your roots and scalp then rinse.  Allow the water (mixed with shampoo) to run through your strands.

5. And, of course, follow up with a good conditioner
A "good" conditioner is one that helps to retain the moisture in your hair.  (Optional: a "good" conditioner will also strengthen the hair.)

6. Speaking of winter - Dry hair completely before ...
Going outside.  Freezing cold weather + wet hair = not a good outcome.  Let your hair dry completely before opening the door.

Other tips: dilute your shampoo, perform your final rinse with cold water, use a shampoo created for dry hair

Twist Series: Frizz and Knots

More replies coming soon ... :o)

• Do you have alot of shorter strands of hair that contribute to the frizzy look? I noticed that I have alot at the top and middle of my head and was wondering if that is natural or if something is wrong since to me it seems to be increasing in number!

Yes, I do have some short strands that contribute to the frizzy look but not a lot.  I think it's natural to have some shorter hairs whether natural or relaxed.  Given that each hair on our head is in one of three cycles (anagen/growth phase, catagen/transitional phase OR telogen/resting phase), some of the strands may be shorter than others.  Additionally, normal wear and tear can contribute to this outcome.


On the other hand, if the short strands are prevalent or increasing in number, then that is not a good sign and may be the result of breakage or other issues.  Try manipulating the hair less and handling it gentler.

• Second, does having alot of single strand knots at the ends of my hair mean its definitely time for a trim?

I agree with JC's comment here.  If you have the patience (or there aren't too many SSKs), you can do a "search and destroy" whereby you only snip the affected strands.  Otherwise, yes; it's time for a trim.

• Since you mostly keep your hair in twists, are single strand knots a big issue for you?

No, they are not a big issue.  I will admit that as the twists shrink over time, I do get a few SSKs, but they are nowhere near the amount I would get if my hair were left loose.

Someone once asked why I don't dip my ends in water to make them re-curl after twisting.  SSKs is why.  I find that if the ends of my hair shrink up, SSKs are more likely to form.

Label of the Day: Skin Care!

Here are some posts on "Skin Care" in case you've missed them:

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1. Hey Med School ... Skin Care, Please?
2. Fall & Dry Skin ... Rescue Me, Shea
3. Nail Health 101
4. Natural Blemish Lighteners
5. Household Makeup Removers
6. Sugar, Acne, and Skin Care Recap!
7. Hyperpigmentation in Black Skin
8. Kojic Acid: Natural Alternative against Hyperpigmentation
9. Building a Skin Care Regimen
10. Natural Skin Care ... On a Budget

Moisturizing Spritz Recipes

The moisturizing spritz is ideal for those with fine hair or those who prefer a lighter alternative to thick butters.  Additionally, it may be used to revive twists or another style that has gotten dry over time.  Below are a couple of quick, easy recipes.  Feel free to tweak to your own liking!

H2O Spritz
- water
- few drops of essential oil (your favorite)

ROSE-GLYCERIN Spritz
- 4 parts rosewater
- 1-2 parts glycerin

LEAVE-IN Spritz
- 5 parts water
- 1 part conditioner (your favorite)

THE WORKS Spritz
- 3-4 parts water
- 2 parts aloe vera juice
- 2 parts glycerin
- 1 part coconut oil
- 1 part olive oil
- few drops essential oil (your favorite)

NOTE: Some of these spritzes have a short shelf life (few days to a few weeks), so be sure not to create too much in one sitting.  Refrigeration may extend the shelf life a bit.

Twist Series: The Method I

More replies coming soon ... :o)

• When you put in your shea butter mixture can you indicate how much exactly you put, because I find that when I do my hair I can't lean up on anything afterwards...lol Should it be a dime sized amount or should I not worry about the oil slick!
• Can you show a picture to give any indication to how you part the twists?
• When you say that you "reapply the whipped shea butter" weekly.. do you just rub the butter along the twisted hair? Or untwist, apply shea butter, and then retwist?
• I find when I go to remoisturize my twists, whether I re-wet my hair and apply moisturizer or just apply the moisturizer alone, my twists are sooo frizzy and fuzzy afterwards. How can I prevent this? I have about 6 inches of hair just to give you an idea.

1. After washing, deep conditioning, and detangling, I plop my hair (while in 10-12 jumbo twists) in a towel. (Time: 1-2 hrs.)

2. After plopping, I undo each jumbo twist and apply a half-dollar-sized amount of whipped shea butter to each section.  Then I redo each jumbo twist and airdry (in a satin scarf) until 80-90% dry. (Time: several hours.)  I suggest applying enough butter to seal your hair and not so much to coat it.   

Plop, moisturize, then airdry in jumbo twists under scarf.

3. Once airdried 80-90% of the way, I begin to twist my hair.  I take down a jumbo twist and begin parting.  I find it easiest to part a horizontal section and then grab-and-go within that section.  I make smaller parts along the perimeter ... larger parts within the perimeter.  (Twist time: 1-3 hrs, depending on size.)  If needed, a small amount of whipped shea butter is reapplied to the ends of the twists only.

Part horizontally, then grab and go.

Smaller parts near nape.  (Not too small though.)

Long, slender parts along hairline.  (Too small = bad for my edges.)

4. When I reapply the whipped shea butter weekly (after a quick spritz with water), I just rub the butter along the twisted hair from the mid-shaft to the ends.  Afterwards, I immediately put my twists in 1-2 frenchbraids and wrap with a satin scarf to combat frizz formation.  Once the hair has "set", I take off the satin scarf. (Time: 30 minutes - 1hr.)